Bordeaux does not reveal itself at once. Behind its UNESCO facades, famous squares and grand crus hide unusual, unknown places, sometimes forgotten by locals themselves. We made the list of the 10 most surprising spots in the city, from the Roman Palais Gallien to the German bunkers, via the underground river running below the city centre.
1. Palais Gallien, forgotten Roman relic
The Palais Gallien, on Rue du Docteur Albert-Barraud, is the only visible ancient relic in Bordeaux: a 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre that could hold 22,000 spectators. Two monumental arches and a few brick-and-stone wall sections remain. In a quiet residential neighbourhood, free access, often totally empty. A real time trip five minutes from the Jardin Public.
2. The Peugue underground river
Beneath Bordeaux city centre runs a completely buried tributary of the Garonne: the Peugue. This river, channelled in the 19th century, crosses the city underground from south to Garonne, running below streets, buildings, squares. Not visitable, but its path can be guessed via the cast-iron grates on the ground. One example among others of the Bordeaux hidden under passers-by feet.
3. The bunkers buried under the city
Bordeaux, strategic port city during Second World War, hides in its underground a mesh of reinforced concrete bunkers built by the German army between 1941 and 1944. The best-known is the 83 sqm one buried under Place des Quinconces. The Bacalan submarine base is visitable and today houses the Bassins de Lumières. Many forgotten, walled-up bunkers remain in the left-bank neighbourhoods.
4. Chartreuse cemetery, romantic and eerie
The oldest Parisian-style cemetery in Bordeaux is a 27-hectare space founded in 1791, with its monumental funerary structures, romantic sculptures and cypress-shaded alleys. A walk through Chartreuse plunges you into 19th-century bourgeois Bordeaux, with tombs of Rosa Bonheur, Franck Cazenave and many great trading families. Melancholy and peaceful atmosphere, best visited late afternoon.
5. The 19th-century covered passages
Bordeaux keeps several unknown 19th-century covered passages. Passage Sarget, between Rue Sainte-Catherine and Cours de l'Intendance, offers an elegant glass roof and quirky boutiques. Passage de la Concorde, more discreet, hides between Rue de la Concorde and Rue Vital-Carles. Two relics of an era when Bordeaux imitated Paris and its great shopping galleries. Quick to see, very photogenic.
6. Rue des Bahutiers and its artisan workshops
Squeezed between Rue Sainte-Catherine and Saint-Pierre, Rue des Bahutiers owes its name to travel trunk makers (the "bahuts") set up there in the Middle Ages. It still preserves restoration workshops, leather goods makers, bookbinders and confidential addresses tourists never find. Perfect stroll to catch the artisan Bordeaux.
7. Place Fernand Lafargue and its medieval arcades
A stone's throw from Place du Palais, Place Fernand Lafargue keeps a rare set of medieval arcades on its 15th-century houses. One of the few pre-18th-century urban relics in Bordeaux, most medieval houses having been demolished during the great Enlightenment-era renovations. Best discovered early morning, when nobody passes through.
8. The crypt of Sainte-Croix church
Sainte-Croix church, in the Saint-Michel neighbourhood, is an 11th-century Romanesque jewel often neglected in favour of Saint-André cathedral. Its sculpted facade is splendid, but especially its crypt, even older (10th century), holds Merovingian capitals and a tomb of founder Saint Mommolin. Rarely open, visits on request at the parish office.
9. Dames de la Foi garden
Small discreet garden hidden behind a wall on Rue Judaïque, former enclosure of a 17th-century convent. Today open to the public during the day, it offers a totally unexpected green refuge in the middle of the urban fabric, with trimmed boxwood, benches and monastic atmosphere. Nobody passes through. Well-kept secret.
10. The Grosse Cloche on Rue Saint-James
The Grosse Cloche, relic of the former medieval city hall, straddles Rue Saint-James with its two stone towers connected by a belfry. Historic Bordeaux symbol, it used to ring the harvest and set the pace of city life. Since 2016, it can be visited: 200-step climb to the bell, splendid view over the medieval roofs of the Saint-Pierre neighbourhood. Count 6 euros, booking advised.
Bordeaux gives itself to those who look
The real charm of Bordeaux is these successive layers to lift one by one. A tourist can visit Place de la Bourse and the Cité du Vin in a weekend. It takes more time, and more curiosity, to find the others. This list is only a start.
